By Mark H. Anbinder
August 19, 2010
Here at 14850 Dining, we like to say that Ithaca and its surroundings reportedly have the most restaurants per capita of any area in the United States. We're not surprised! But we're pleased to say that food in this area excels in quality and variety, not just quantity.
Every year about this time, Ithaca's population swells with thousands of new and returning students, who'll call Tompkins County home for the next several years. And, every year about this time, we know people are looking around and wondering where to eat. We have some thoughts on the matter.
Your mom asked us to remind you that breakfast is the most important meal of the day. We're happy to report that Ithaca is very good at breakfast, so you have no excuse for not getting a proper start to your day.
Of course a diner is a good place to look for breakfast, and Ithaca's diners don't disappoint. Manos Diner in Ithaca's southwest makes a perfect stack of blueberry pancakes every time, and serves a great, spicy breakfast sausage. Their steak and eggs really shines, if you've got a serious appetite in the morning... or anytime. Check out the new Prize Diner, on State Street just west of the Commons, for great omelets or corned beef hash. (Make mine extra crisp.) At the Lincoln Street Diner, in the Fall Creek neighbourhood, try the Ziffy omelet, named for the former owner and stuffed with ham, bacon, onions, peppers, cheese, and homefries. Sausage gravy is optional, but how could you skip it?
On the weekend, fancy things up a little at the Carriage House Cafe, with a spectacular pear compote stuffed French toast. Get a side of the apple chicken sausage. Or try brunch at one of two Simply Red Bistros, at La Tourelle on Ithaca's south hill, or at Sheldrake Point Winery at the start of an afternoon of winery tastings.
What kind of pizza do you consider "real" pizza? Depending on where you're from, what you find in Ithaca may not match your definition of pizza, but there's lots of good pizza to be found anyway.
The uncontested winner of the "Best Deep-Dish Pizza" award is always going to be The Nines, on College Avenue in Collegetown. Their square deep-dish pie will feed 2-4 people (share some appetizers, like the infamous corn nuggets, and one slice per person is enough) and features such unusual toppings as breaded and fried eggplant, spicy chicken, and sliced meatballs, along with the usual items.
Papa John's makes one of the best traditional, round pizzas in town, thanks to a focus on fresh ingredients despite their chain status and their surprisingly affordable prices. I've always been a fan of the garlic dipping sauce and hot peppers that come with each pizza, and the slices-and-soda lunch specials are a good deal.
My favourite among the traditional, round pizzas, though, is from Napoli Pizza, at the foot of the East State Street hill in the Gateway building. Napoli's roots go back decades in downtown Ithaca, and they know how to make their pizza. Napoli also has by far the best wings in town.
Speaking of wings, we finally have a new source of tofu "wings" in town (Geppetto's, which pioneered the concept around here, closed a few years ago) at Jack's Collegetown Grill. It's an oddity at an eatery that serves so many burgers, cheesesteaks, and actual chicken wings, but vegetarians should know it's an option. If you're vegan, you might appreciate the soy "cheese" at Pizza Aroma, near the Commons on Cayuga Street.
Ithaca's known for its vegetarian cooking, and with good reason. Even people who've never been to Ithaca have a Moosewood Cookbook or one of its sequels, and this downtown eatery nearly lives up to the resulting reputation. Both food and service are OK but not great, and it's a little on the pricey side.
There are of course lots of other vegetarian options in town, even at omnivore restaurants, such as veggieburgers at many burger spots and of course Ithaca's huge collection of Asian eateries.
While we're on the subject of Ithaca's huge collection of Asian eateries, we certainly have lots of Chinese buffet options, from the massive Main Moon in Ithaca's southwest to the latest arrival, Imperial Kitchen Buffet near Ithaca Mall on North Triphammer Road. There are also some lunchtime-only buffets, at Jade Garden downtown and Peking Restaurant in Cayuga Mall in the northeast. But my favorite lunch buffet, and my favorite place to sit down and order a full Chinese dinner, is still Wok Village in the Small Mall, near the new Homewood Suites Hotel.
Sushi has landed everywhere, from the Chinese buffets to the supermarkets, but we've found the freshest, tastiest, and most creative sushi options lately at the new Sushi O Sake, on Aurora Street downtown. Their menu matches that of Plum Tree in Collegetown because they have the same owners, but the same creative sushi rolls appearing on menus at yet another place in town are thanks to shameless duplication. (Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, right?) The sushi is also great at Kyushu, which is still the place to go for hibachi, the Japanese steakhouse style that's cooked right in front of you.
Ithaca's also known for having the best Thai food in New York State, thanks to Thai Cuisine on Route 13. Their ped long song, crispy duck with spinach and peanut sauce, may be the finest Thai dish I've ever eaten anywhere. When I'm not in the mood for quite as much of a splurge, Little Thai House on Dryden Road in Collegetown has already-ready, delicious, and fresh Thai take-out (or eat it there) for just six bucks. And Taste of Thai Express, in new digs in the west end, offers great variety at reasonable prices, and delivers.
Face it, if you're a college student, your biggest concern is combating those late-night munchies, in the wee-morning hours between McDonald's closing at 11pm and the dining halls opening at 6am. You're in luck!
If you want food to show up wherever you are, don't wait too late. Late-night delivery peters out around 1:30-2:30am at places like Papa John's Pizza, Jimmy John's Gourmet Sandwiches, Wings Over Ithaca, and Jack's Collegetown Grill.
Shortstop DeliIf you don't mind venturing out, or if you've missed that last 2am delivery, try the Shortstop Deli on West Seneca Street, a couple of blocks west of the Commons. They'll always make sandwiches and subs, and there's usually some soup, chili, or macaroni & cheese available. It's also a convenience store if you need to stock up on soda and chips, and the coffee's fresh. Shortstop is also the only place you can get Hot Truck subs made to order 24/7, so when the legendary Stewart Avenue food emporium is closed, hop on down the hill for a T-Sui or a PMP Pep. (When it's open, get your sub from the real Hot Truck.)
What's the occasion? Whether your parents are taking you out to dinner while visiting campus, or you're looking for a nice night out with your sweetie, Ithaca has several upscale restaurants to fit the bill. Downtown, pay a visit to Just a Taste to sample and share a variety of tapas, lots of wines by the glass, and Ithaca's finest chocolate soufflé, guided by expert servers who know their offerings even though they change daily.
Seared ahi tuna at Fine Line BistroIn Ithaca's northeast is the Heights Cafe, with good food and good service that almost match the prices. Relative newcomers in the fancy arena are Fine Line Bistro on West State Street, and Hazelnut Kitchen a few miles up the lake in Trumansburg. Fine Line has options ranging from gourmet burgers to angel hare pasta -- that's "hare" as in rabbit meat in the pasta dish. And Hazelnut has a frequently changing menu featuring seasonal preparations of lamb, duck, and lots more. The latest is Mira Mediterranean Bistro, just opened on Third Street, with moderately priced dishes and top-notch fine-dining service and attention to detail.
It's always important to have something to eat before writing this stuff, but I've just made myself hungry anyway wrapping up the latest incarnation of our annual welcome feature. I hope I've given you an appetite, too. Go enjoy one of the Ithaca area's fine eateries, perhaps trying something you've never had before, and tell them you heard about them here.
