Nautical Flair and Serious Food at the Boatyard Grill

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On a recent August evening, the lake-water temperature charts that grace the entryway to the Boatyard Grill showed little red lines going off the scale. Outside it was as hot as Ithaca gets, but inside was cool and inviting, and some diners even braved the outdoor deck. The Boatyard's décor consists largely of dark wood, including old ship wood and driftwood, and nautical touches. Not surprisingly, seafood is well represented on the varied menu, which also boasts wood-grilled steaks and chops, and variations on familiar comfort foods.

For Starters

A visit to the Boatyard Grill might begin with a wait, but of the patrons we've asked, everyone who understood this up front was happy. We (and the restaurant) suggest taking advantage of their call-ahead seating. It's not a reservation, but your name will be on the list ahead of those who simply walk in.

The wait is better passed with a drink at the spacious bar area, perhaps along with one of the finger-friendly appetizers. The spinach and artichoke fondue, my favorite, blends the veggies with rich, melted cheese, and is served with chips that seem a cross between toasted pita and fried tortilla. Lobster and brie quesadilla is a remarkable treat, though could use more lobster.

The "east meets west" spring rolls, stuffed with spinach, chicken, and white cheddar cheese, are on the bland side themselves, but come with two flavorful sauces. The sweet, spicy chili sauce offers a serious kick, and the sesame soy sauce is tangy and mild. This appetizer should wait until you have a table and fork; it's not finger food.

Signature drinks include a passionfruit margarita and the Boatyard Thrill (a raspberry-peach daiquiri), and the bar has a good selection of premium liquors and decent wine.

The fresh ciabatta bread that arrives warm after the appetizers doesn't need the whipped dill butter, but it would be a shame not to try some. Each entrée comes with a house salad or "unfashionable" wedge of iceberg (which features bacon bits, tomato, and onions alongside), and patrons of Joe's will find the Boatyard Italian dressing very reminiscent of the dressing that adorns Joe's bottomless salad bowl. That's one of many touches (and more than a few staff members) that joined one of the Boatyard's owners, Mark Campagnolo, when he left Joe's for this new project.

Amber, our waitress, is one of the Joe's transplants. She told us about the rigorous training program that makes sure all of the Boatyard's staff members, including not just wait staff but also the busboys, knows their jobs. The week-long program, Amber says, helps Campagnolo to "run a tight ship “ no pun intended." The effort has paid off; the wait staff does a good job, and is quick to notice and react if something's amiss.

The Main Event

When you dine at the Boatyard Grill, you really need to try one of the exceptional steaks. But you also really need to try one of the fresh seafood dishes. I've done well splitting one of each with a friend on a couple of occasions, but since the seafood specials are so tantalizing, I have yet to get to the regular seafood menu items. One such special, a generous halibut fillet rubbed with fresh orange zest, horseradish, and breadcrumbs, was beautifully presented on a bed of the house citrus beurre blanc, with saffron rice. Fish purists will appreciate the option of "naked" tuna, swordfish, and others, prepared over the hardwood grill with "just a gleam" of olive oil and lemon.

Also from the grill are the Boatyard's steaks, such as the "Texas Cowboy" porterhouse on the bone, served with chipotle demi glaze; the perfectly done "Sizzling Angus;" or the Filet Mignon Portobello, a generous filet served over a seared Portobello cap with mashed potatoes and fresh spinach. Each arrives with a small mound of crispy fried onions, the perfect finishing touch. I've heard good things about the pork chops and Key West grilled chicken, but have yet to try them.

Vegetarians won't find a huge selection here, but most will be happy with Kristin's Favorite Pasta, a mound of fresh veggies and penne in a lemon oregano broth, topped with crumbled feta; the fresh grilled ratatouille; or the eggplant "shortstack," a cross between eggplant parmigiana and mousaka.

Those with a lighter appetite will find they can't quite finish the generous entrée salads, such as a grilled chicken cobb salad or a warm spinach salad served with gorgonzola vinaigrette. Creative sandwiches are available, as well.

Afterwards

If you haven't saved room for dessert, perhaps your party can split one. We highly recommend the Boatyard's specialty "sizzling cookie," a wedge of chocolate chip cookie the size of a slice of pie, served with Purity banana ice cream and hot caramel sauce that's poured over the dessert when it reaches your table. (Careful, it's hot.) The lemonberry tiramisu was less impressive; it seemed more like a fluffy cake than like the magical dessert whose name, in Italian, means "pick-me-up."

The Boatyard's freshly brewed coffee has been consistently great; even the decaf is rich and flavorful.

It's not surprising to see the restaurant still full, most nights, months after the hoopla of their grand opening. The combination of exceptional food and professional service should keep the crowds coming for many years.

The Boatyard Grill opens for dinner nightly at 5 (the bar opens at 4:30), and lunch is served Friday through Sunday from noon to 4. Plan on spending $8-15 per person for lunch and $10-30 for dinner.