Dijon adds to Ithaca's French restaurant tradition

This week we're on Ithaca's north side visiting the new Dijon French Bistro. Ithaca has a long history of French restaurants, such as the Greystone Inn and L'Auberge du Cochon Rouge, with Les Ducs and Lokelani's as more recent examples, and this one is a great addition to the tradition.

As unseasonably warm weather has finally turned to late fall, the warm and hearty French country fare served at Dijon is just what the doctor ordered. Start with a bowl of onion soup, served with gruyere cheese. Is it redundant to call it "French onion soup?"

We tried the country paté appetizer, a generous serving of paté that was both creamy and coarse, just how I like it, paired with Dijon mustard and tiny cornichons, those sweet mini pickles. Owner and hostess Courtnay Papera told us the restaurant's paté comes from California. The succulent mussels were served in a thick broth of white wine and garlic, perfect for dipping an order of french fries, or frites.

A friend tried the chicken and wild mushroom pot pie, a hearty meal with a flaky pastry crust and a blend of flavours that went perfectly with a glass of French wine. I was lucky enough to try the cassoulet, available Tuesdays. It's a favourite of mine, a thick and meaty French country stew with lots of white beans. In Dijon's case, the cassoulet featured several kinds of sausage, a chunk of bacon, boudin noir, and a duck leg.

Dijon offers an appealing selection of different meats, including poultry, beef, and lamb, as well as seafood dishes. There are always vegetarian options available, though the printed menu doesn't include many. We all had plenty of leftovers to bring home, which helped to offset the cost of dining at Dijon. Well worth it, but not inexpensive.

Expect to pay $25 or more for a meal. Dijon is open for dinner Monday through Saturday at 311 Third Street, between Route 13 and Hancock Street, near the Sciencenter and the Motor Vehicle Bureau. Call 256-0503 or visit dijonbistro.com.