Not by bread alone...

When I told a friend in Florida I was going to visit the Ithaca Bakery, she exclaimed, "Oh, I love bakeries!" I had to stop and think for a moment, then explain that our Meadow Street "bakery" doesn't just do bread and pastries. They do bake the fresh bread, rolls, donuts, cookies, and cakes for a staggering number of hotels, stores, offices, and other eateries around the region, but I was there to visit the eatery part of the business.

So much food, so little time

Before we sat down to sample the Ithaca Bakery's offerings, my dining companion and I peered hungrily, and impressed, into the several glass deli cases that make up much of the counter space. What could otherwise seem a barrier between staff and customers is instead an inviting array of foods.

"Cheese is the friendliest of foods," said noted food author James Beard, quoted in this month's in-house "Side Dish" newsletter, and evening supervisor Joel Cowan told us "I get to run the cheese case, which is heaven to me." The selection of interesting gourmet cheeses rivals any supermarket's, and the nearby smoked fish includes smoked sturgeon, "a very rare fish from the Caspian sea." Joel says the contents of this case change seasonally, with luxuries like caviar making an appearance for the holidays.

Nearby are shelves of gourmet crackers, bags of chips, plus salsas, bottles of interesting hot sauce, spices, teas and coffees, and wonderful-looking chocolates and candies, such as the "curiously strong" Altoids mints and a range of Ghirardelli products.

The deli case offers the usual, but on a selection of fresh bread that's only surprising until you remember you're at a bakery. Try the Flat Rock, turkey with fresh goat cheese, sundried tomatoes, and fresh basil on a baguette with oil and balsamic vinegar; the Last Strand, with fresh mozzarella , sundried tomatoes, and roasted red peppers; or my favorite, the T-Burg with a Twist, tuna with slices of avocado and tomato on pumpernickel. Add a side dish like rosemary garlic potatoes, fresh fruit salad, tabouli, or potato salad.

These folks did get their start with bagels, of course, and the overwhelming majority of bagels in Ithaca come from this very bakery. (The original Collegetown Bagels is the only other Brous & Mehaffey location that bakes its own.) From the straightforward bagel-with-cream-cheese (or butter, or Nutella) to well-stacked breakfast sandwiches, or bagels spread with whitefish salad, if you can imagine it on a bagel (or perhaps even if you can't), Ithaca Bakery can do it for you.

I have to admit, too, that I'm skeptical about that old slogan, "Not by bread alone." I've tried several Ithaca Bakery breads, and, as Joel commented, after decades where you could hardly find anything as exotic as Italian bread on America's store shelves, "this is real bread." Both the Beck's n' Cheddar (yep, made with the beer) and Russian Raisin Walnut, each baked a couple of days a week, feel like a complete meal.

In the mood for hot food?

The Ithaca Bakery may not really be a restaurant, but you wouldn't know it to see the wonderful dishes that are prepared at their Triphammer Mall store, "CTB Appetizers," and distributed to their stores around town. This month's Asian theme brings us a five-spice soba noodle dish as Friday's dinner special; tonight, it was with tender chunks of salmon.

That's not the only noodle dish tonight; among the frequent offerings is a beef stroganoff with tender, lean chunks of meat, and a slightly spicy and creamy sauce served over broad noodles. There's always a range of fresh entrées ready to be heated and eaten on the spot, or packaged to take home for dinner or to work for lunch, ranging from vegetarian fare to roasted chicken or sliced meatloaf.

Mustn't forget drinks and dessert

Sure, there are cases of juices, milk, the usual sodas, and Ithaca's best selection of Dr. Brown's, but a trip to the Ithaca Bakery deserves a freshly brewed cup of straightforward coffee; regular, flavored, or herbal tea; or something more exotic like a double cappuccino or one of the specialties of the house, "Jeff's Java Jolt." It's an iced double espresso with chocolate and milk, and it's addictive.

Dessert is a tough choice in many of Ithaca's establishments -- but since many of their desserts were made here, the selection is just plain staggering. There are fruit tarts and German chocolate cakes, cheesecakes and cookies galore. Joel convinced me to try a slice of fresh gingerbread, warmed and served with whipped cream. I was glad I'd saved room, and as though nothing else would have, this gingerbread will bring me back.

Any time of day, you can satisfy your appetite at the Ithaca Bakery for just a few bucks for a bagel sandwich or deli sandwich, or spend $5-10 for a full meal.