Revisiting a revitalized Joe's Restaurant in Ithaca's west end

This week we're returning to an old favourite in Ithaca's West End, the famous Joe's Restaurant. Reopened a little over two years ago to great fanfare and high expectations, Joe's was good, but labored for a while with the common impression that they hadn't quite gotten it. More recently, the return of a former chef has helped to set things right.

Joe's signature salad and breadsticks have settled down -- we love the crisp new breadsticks, dusted with grated cheese, a big improvement over last year's version. And the bottomless salad features Joe's traditional sweet Italian dressing -- or you can ask for something different.

One strategy to dining at Joe's is to fill up on the unlimited salad and breadsticks, then eat a little of your entrée and have leftovers for tomorrow. That's fine, I've done it too, but don't miss out on some of the great appetizers at Joe's! Many of them are fried, such as the toasted ravioli, delicious and crisp with a side of tomato sauce for dipping. The calamari appetizer is always a winner, and we enjoyed the spinach and artichoke dip, veggies mixed with gooey melted cheese, ready to dip your crostini in. If you're not into fried or gooey, try the caprese, fresh sliced tomatoes topped with mozzarella and basil.

We're delighted to see the Chicken Vincente return to Joe's menu... this signature dish has layers of batter-fried eggplant and breaded chicken with ricotta and sauce, baked with mozzarella cheese on top. I recommend a side of spaghetti or cappelini, upgraded to the spicy arrabiata sauce. Especially if you're indulging in an appetizer, or want to save room for dessert, it's easy to take home half of the chicken and pasta for tomorrow's lunch. The arrabiata is a wonderfully piquant spicy version of marinara, with plum tomatoes, basil, and garlic.

If you really want to stay focused on pasta, add a side of Italian sausage or homemade meatballs. The sausage in particular is fantastic, a generous, spicy, fennelly, and meaty portion for just a few bucks, with a bit of the homemade tomato sauce. Chef Steve Brown learned much of what he knows working with the legendary John Petrillose and his son Bob at Johnny's Big Red Bar & Grill. (Bob, of course, is better known for founding the Hot Truck and working there nightly for decades.) Steve had us try the handmade meatballs at the end of our meal, and I was ready for another dinner.

The black angus sirloin is a generous cut, but there are better steaks in town. We're more impressed with the delicious and affordable pizzas, starting at $10 and available in ever-growing variety with red sauce or in a white pizza form, with garlic and olive oil. I've enjoyed the Bomber, $14 with red sauce, spinach, ricotta, and sliced sausage, and a friend's Ithacan was a white pizza with diced tomatoes, spinach, red pepper, and mushrooms.

Half portions of many dishes are available for those with lighter appetites, and there are several vegetarian and even vegan options.

Our server was very helpful in customizing a seafood dish to meet one diner's dietary needs. She's one of the familiar faces on the staff at Joe's, among the servers we're happy to see again and again. Even from the very beginning, Joe's has had a well orchestrated dining room staff, with a good attitude, enough but not too much attention at the table.

Of course, we recommend ending your dinner at Joe's with the delicious and sinful Tiramisu, mascarpone and lady fingers soaked in Kahlua and coffee. Or the chocolate peanut butter landslide.

Plan on spending 15-30 bucks a person for dinner, a bit more with drinks and dessert, or stop in for the Tuesday through Sunday lunch buffet for a quick and affordable sampling of Joe's offerings. Call 607-256-DINE (3463) or visit joesithaca.com or the corner of Buffalo and Meadow Streets, and tell them you heard about them here.