Olivia brings sophisticated comfortable dining to Ithaca's East Hill

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The latest eatery in town is Olivia, on Pine Tree Road near East Hill Plaza.

Olivia aims for a sophisticated but comfortable dining experience, and we think they've hit the nail on the head. Their building, formerly Coyote Loco, has been completely renovated and rearranged. It looks great, and everything seems to flow well. Windows behind the bar to the outdoor deck provide for easy bar service both inside and out, and I hope to spend lots of time on that deck while the weather allows.

The bar has a long list of great beers on tap and in bottles, without a single "lowest common denominator" domestic brew like Bud Lite or Miller. (It's no premium brew, but Utica Club seems more a quirky New York addition than a nod to lousy taste.)

A creative drink menu includes the Loco, a nod to the signature margarita at Coyote Loco. I know I liked it, but as memories faded a year after Coyote Loco closed, I wondered just how faithful the reproduction was, until I spotted former Coyote Loco owner John Alexander enjoying his second. Alongside the Loco are creative rum, gin, and bourbon concoctions (no, not all in the same drink) that seem especially suited to a warm evening on the deck.

The extensive wine list includes some exceptional wines, but we'd like to see a couple more Finger Lakes options.

One appetizer we tried on our recent visit was the remarkable nachos, fresh, large tortilla chips topped with white bean puree, goat cheese, and chunks of lamb. Brie with grilled grape skewers is exactly what it sounds like; brie is always good, and the warm grapes make an interesting counterpoint.

Our entrees were a large O Burger, served with gorgonzola cheese, bacon, and tomato; sliced sirloin with ginger peach jus, and the fettucini with ginger duck, roasted red peppers, and cilantro pesto. All were excellent... the steak was done perfectly, the duck was delicious, and the burger was huge.

For dessert, try the chocolate and chambord dumplings.

Olivia is on the pricey side (plan on spending $15-35 per person on dinner) but worth it for a relaxed lunch or a special dinner. The $18 prix fixe special on Sunday is a tempting way to eat well for less. Call 607-272-1020 or check out kitchenandcocktail.com, and tell them you heard about them here.